The contents of the three products all consist of wood flakes and fungi mycelium , the major difference of them is the volumes , other differences such as fungi species , wood kinds , additives , humidity and grain sizes may be caused by different brands and manufacturers .
In general , kinshi bottles have higher decayed degrees than fermented wood flakes , but it is not always like this , if i want it to come true , i must check something first .
In my experiences , kinshi bottles will undergo three different stages in their lifespan .
The three stages all relate to a kinshi bottle's wood flakes and mycelium status .
At the 1st stage , the fungi mycelium have not spread to all the wood flakes inside the bottle , so the kinshi bottle is not full white in color .
At this moment , the wood flakes is dark brown and hard in texture .
At the 2nd stage , the fungi mycelium colonize all the wood flakes inside the bottle , as time goes on , the decayed degree of the wood flakes will be rise gradually .
Finally , the color of the wood flakes will be changed from dark brown to pale yellow , signifying that the kinshi bottle is suitable to be used to rear larvae .
At the 3rd stage , the fungi mycelium are rotten , i can't see filaments anymore .
At this moment , the texture of the wood flakes is soft and similar to dirt .
Using the 1st or 3rd stage kinshi bottles to rear larvae is always failed , eventually , the larvae will become minor adults or die in the bottle .
For me , the manufacture date of a kinshi bottle is the most important thing which i can use to estimate that the kinshi bottle is or not worth to buy .
If the boss does not know the manufacture date either , i will try to identify that the kinshi bottle stays in which stage . Or to buy the non full white kinshi bottles as the spare .
Once the mycelium spread to all the wood flakes inside the bottle , they still need time to decompose the lignins , so i will wait for a while before using the bottle .
I prefer to use fungi bags rather than kinshi bottles , because fungi bags allow me to adjust something about rearing , if i don't want to do that , i can use the fungi bags directly .
When using fungi bags or fungi bricks , i usually tend to remake them , thus , i can put something to aid the fungi growing well and portion out the fungi lump in the prepared jars .
Besides , the water distribution of the fungi lump also can be averaged by crushing the lump and stirring the wood flakes before topping up the jars .
If the fungi bags are fresh , the mycelium will be strong and not afraid molds to compete with them , finally , all the jars will be white in a few days .
In order to ensure the successful ratio , i will disinfect my hands and tools with alcohol before touching the fungi bags , then , placing the finished jars in somewhere at 20 ~ 25 degrees Celsius . (The most of molds like the environment which is warm and moist .)
Notice that fungi growth needs oxygen especially in the expanded period , so i prefer to poke some ventilation holes on the lids and cover the jars incompletely .
For fermented wood flakes , the dark brown color means that it has higher decayed degree , that completely different from kinshi bottles , so i must choose the right substrate with the right decayed degree to rear the right larvae .
Related pictures :
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The ends of the fungi bags were dark brown |
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The 2nd stage fungi bags , they were full white , 2011-12-8 |
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The right fungi lump had pale yellow wood flakes , it was suitable for rearing |
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Adding additives in the wood flakes (N source) |
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Adding additives in the wood flakes (C source) |
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After stirring the wood flakes , the white color had disappear |
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The finished jars , 2012-2-11 |
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The wood flakes were whitish , 2012-2-12 |
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The wood flakes had been covered by mycelium , 2012-2-12 |
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you put larvae stadium in this last finished bottles with white mycelium right? and they thrive in it and eventually hatch?
回覆刪除What is the additve you're adding ??
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